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Fay Maschler reviews Queenswood

Written by Super User. Posted in Blog

 

 

The Michelin Guide, rightly conscious of the exigencies of travel, rates its two and three star entries as "Table excellente, merite un detour" (worth a detour) and "Une des meilleures tables, vaut le voyage" (worth the journey). On Michelin tyres, of course.

 

Having lunch with a replica handbags outlet chum at the recently opened Queenswood in Battersea Square where even a Michelin inspector would find it tricky to find a parking space I mention that it would be a reasonably rewarding place for discount replica michael kors those who live in the neighbourhood. "Or maybe next door," she crisply replies.

 

Queenswood has come from Sax Arshad (also a founder of Manchester's fake michael kors Mughli restaurants) and Antonio Cardoso, partners in a new company called Zanna Concepts. The Battersea restaurant is more ambitious in scope, and in the trade press and online there has been mention of a development chef involved called Aude Placktor, who worked in Paris at various establishments including L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.

 

Bright: smoked cured duck, bamboo shoots, green beans, grapefruit, coriander and sesame seeds (photo: Adrian Lourie)

 

Not wanting to ask questions like "Where's Aude then?" and reveal "Mrs Martin" (pseudonym now deleted) to be someone other than just a disinterested customer, I never discover if she is cooking. On the first visit, which is for dinner, I peer into the kitchen from the bar but can't spot anyone fake handbags online who looks like a female French development chef.

 

The menu, which kicks off with mung bean soup with kale and coriander, followed with quinoa and beetroot, and has V for vegan/vegetarian assemblies scattered among the fish and meat dishes is, I suppose, making a statement about health conscious eating. But I think we have reached a point in modern restaurants where it is unnecessary to proselytise quite so ham fistedly. In places such as The Dairy, not far away in Clapham, Brunswick House in Vauxhall and Lyle's in the distant realm of Shoreditch to name just a few salubrity is a given rather than an apparent stricture.

 

In this somewhat dated reading of culinary multiculturalism the staff inhabit a virtuous circle of their own. It is hard to rouse them from their dreams of samphire and the waitress who brings us an espresso after lunch puts it down with a toss of her head and a little snort of derisive laughter.

 

Anxious (honestly) to find items to praise and reasons to hop on the 170 bus, over two meals I try 10 dishes including two michael kors outlet store of the desserts, all dairy free (apart from the cheeses). Gratuitous complexity mars seaweed and pak choi salad with wakame, samphire, soya sprouts and sesame seeds in replica michael kors a garlic, ginger and rice vinegar dressing. Also it is fridge cold and wet as a compress.

 

Slices of rather good smoked duck replica michael kors handbags are similarly overburdened by a garnish of bamboo shoots, green beans, pink grapefruit, coriander and sesame seeds. The brunch dish of "avocado on mustard toast, hint of chilli (poached egg optional)" is pieces of under ripe avocado on bare grilled bread topped with sliced red chilli. The dry toast is mustard free and what could be a supportive flick of olive oil and maybe a spritz of lemon has not been thought about or applied.

 

A blackboard announces meat choices, which are different cuts and weights of steak and also a daily mushroom dish. It is enoki mushroom risotto. The rice for this is so overcooked as to be sodden and slovenly, which is the same fate for replica bags Israeli couscous (ptitim) in another V creation with pumpkin and sun dried tomato pure, strips of courgette, raw kohlrabi, goat's cheese and pine nuts. Who knows? Maybe Aude has hotfooted it back to Paris already.

 

Half a roasted free range chicken "spicy Mozambican" is two pieces of a fine bird with resilient flavour and texture and a pleasantly scorching skin. An unheralded scattering of roasted root vegetables is infinitely preferable to the mound of claggy coconut rice I choose in place of chips. You can buy Lucuma powder, made from a Peruvian fruit, in Holland Barrett. Here it michael kors outlet is part of a chocolate fondant made with almond milk served with melted salt fake bags caramel. It has the same disappointment potential as when health nuts trick you with carob in place of cocoa.

 

Wines are mostly organic and are reasonably priced, although five of the 14 choices in white and red have been crossed off the list. Cocktails are fancy creations with names such as Earl Greatful Martini and Japaroni.

 

Queenswood has an attractive quite folksy interior and a terrace for pretty days. In Michelin speak you could say it is "Une tres bon table dans sa categorie" if that category is Battersea Square.

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